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Derry has become a holiday destination.
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A peaceful city
Ciara Leeming21/ 4/2008
`YOU see up there? That's where the women would stand banging bin lids, to warn that the British soldiers were approaching.
"And all those white flags you can see fluttering in the cemetery. They mark the graves of those who died fighting for a united Ireland."
We stood shivering beneath a wall bearing the famous slogan of resistance "You Are Now Entering Free Derry", as Rory, our guide, pointed out places of significance from a bitter 30-year conflict.
We gawped at the distinctive gable-end murals, depicting scenes and characters from the Troubles - hunger strikers, petrol bombers and civil rights campaigners - but now joined by an enormous, colourful dove of peace.
This was the Bogside, in Derry - one of Northern Ireland's most staunchly Republican housing estates - and that we were even there is testament to how far things have come over recent years.
The idea of visitors traipsing around this part of the province's second city would probably have been inconceivable just a decade ago, in those dark, pre-Good Friday Agreement days.
Londonderry
Derry - Londonderry to Loyalists - is close to the border with the Irish Republic and saw some of the worst atrocities of the Troubles.
Chief among them was the killing of 13 unarmed civilians at a civil rights march through the Bogside in 1972 - Bloody Sunday - but many residents on both sides have tragic personal tales to tell.
The population is still largely divided, with Catholics and Protestants living in different areas - mainly on opposite banks of the river - but the wider political climate has softened.
The outbreak of peace, coming hand-in-hand with the rise of budget airlines, has kicked off a growing tourist trade.
Rather than glossing over the past, tourist chiefs are marketing the city as a destination for political tourism - one where visitors hear about the conflict from those who lived through it.
At present there is no direct air link from Manchester - as there is from Liverpool - but Belfast is just 40 minutes by plane. From there, Derry's an hour north west by car or coach, making it an ideal weekend break.
Stunning coastline
It's also close to the stunning coastline of County Antrim - the Giant's Causeway is within a short drive - and within easy reach of Donegal, over the border in the Republic.
Sadly for us it was only a one-night taster, but one which more than whetted my appetite for a swift return. We stayed at the City Hotel, overlooking the beautiful River Foyle and a short walk from town.
A tour seemed the ideal way to find out more while seeing something of the elegant but diminutive centre, which is largely contained within Ireland's only city ramparts.
Rory works for Free Derry Tours, a community initiative that aims to give an authentic account of what life was like over recent decades.
Over the next hour and a half he walked us all around central Derry, where history is written in the streets. We saw the architecturally stunning Guildhall, and stopped at a Loyalist estate, one of the only areas on the west bank where the minority Protestants live.
Further on we saw a grand church that once doubled up as a British Army base. We learned that Derry's roads were built exceptionally wide to accommodate the British tanks and were shocked to see armoured police Land-Rovers still on the streets.
The tour ended in one of the city's pubs, The Dungloe, where we got our first taste of Derry hospitality, followed by an evening out at the Nerve Centre complex, courtesy of local club night Deep Fried Funk.
The people were warm, welcoming and extremely laid back - more than willing to talk about the past but refreshingly free of bitterness. That disarming friendliness, and the vividness of the city and all its history stayed with me long beyond our return to Manchester the following day.
FACTBOX
For further information about Derry contact the tourist board on 028 7137 7577 or
www.derryvisitor.com.
Depending when you book, pre-tax flight prices from Manchester to Belfast can be just a few pence each way, with BMI Baby (0871 224 0224 and
www.bmibaby.com)
An hourly coach service operates between Belfast International Airport and Derry, or cars are available to hire. The journey takes a little over an hour. Ryanair flies direct to Derry from Liverpool Airport and is also worth watching for good deals. (0871 246 0000 or
www.ryanair.com)
The 4* City Hotel, on Queens Quay, runs a short break deal, where two nights bed and breakfast, plus dinner on one evening, costs £92 per person sharing. Children aged three-12 cost £20 per night, including meals, and under-twos go free. The hotel leisure centre boasts a Jacuzzi, 15m swimming pool, steam room and gym and can be used by residents. To find out more call 02871 365 800 or visit
www.cityhotelderry.com
To book a Free Derry Tour, call 028 7126 2812 or 07793 285972 or email freederrytours@hotmail.com
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